A STROLL DOWN THE ELEGANT AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE

The Marquis of Pombal stands at the centre of the square bearing his name, casting a stern and disdainful gaze from above as he judges the clumsy manoeuvres of angry drivers struggling their way around the largest roundabout in the city. You will find yourself passing through this square countless times, whether you are a passing tourist, a student on a temporary stay, or a visitor on a brief stopover while waiting for a connecting flight. Note that from this square depart the hop-on hop-off buses, an easy way to begin itineraries that will take you around the city. If you have strong legs, however, the best way to explore Lisbon is on foot. Although, even with strong legs, tackling the city’s countless ups and downs will be a real challenge. For now, though, let us begin our walk along Lisbon’s avenues in an easy way, going downhill.

The square Marquês de Pombal.

Looking in the same direction as the Marquis, you will not only find the many frustrated drivers but also the famous Avenida da Liberdade, which leads toward Baixa district. Walk its entire length, enjoying the cool shade of the large plane trees that line it in a Parisian boulevard style, and browse the shop windows of the major luxury brands along the way. If the heat becomes too much, stop to sip a coffee or a lemonade at one of the kiosks dotted along the avenue.

Had you stood beneath these leafy trees on the 25 April 1974, you would have witnessed a very different scene. Thousands of people poured out of their homes, walking with red carnations in their hands, which they offered to men dressed as soldiers. It was the day of the Carnation Revolution, which would bring an end to the pro-fascist Estado Novo, the authoritarian regime begun by Salazar in 1933. The decisive operation began in the early hours of that April 25, following a secret message: the broadcast on Rádio Renascença of a song banned by censorship, Grândola, Vila Morena. This was the agreed signal to launch the coup, led by Salgueiro Maia and Otelo Saraiva de Carvalho, and the support of the population who poured spontaneously and en masse into squares and streets ensured the plan’s success. Today, Avenida da Liberdade is crossed only by cars and electric scooters, but its name still carries the memory of that historic day.

Praça da Alegria adorned for the feast of Santos Populares.

About halfway along the avenue, turn right and climb a short uphill stretch to reach Praça da Alegria. Recently restored, this square offers a lush garden and, during the Santos Populares festival (held every year in early June), hosts a large stage and stalls where sardines are grilled and cold beer is served. What a dream.

At the end of the avenue you will arrive at Praça dos Restauradores, a square dedicated to the diligent workers who rebuilt the city after the devastation of the earthquake. Here you will also find one of Lisbon’s best pastél de nata, which you can enjoy at A Fábrica do Pastel. From this point on, you will discover the Portuguese passion for squares, as one follows another in quick succession, all quite similar in appearance, likely to give you a sense of déjà vu and momentary disorientation. Do not worry, follow the itinerary below, and Lisbon’s squares will not lead you astray.

Once you have crossed Praça dos Restauradores, you will find Rossio Station on your right, one of the few architectural examples of pure Manueline style (see the Belém section). Continuing on, on your left Praça Dom Pedro IV opens up, at the center of which stands the statue of the Portuguese king to whom it is dedicated, the first Emperor of Brazil. Few, however, refer to this square by that name, as it is far better known simply as Rossio, a word that refers to the square’s original function before it was urbanized, namely an open area (“rossio”) intended for common use and for markets.

From the center of the square, now look up: to your right you will have an excellent point of view over the hill of São Roque and the Carmo Convent, whose broken buttresses are still a testament to the devastating force of the now well-known 18th-century earthquake. Looking to the left instead, you can catch a glimpse of the hill of São Jorge Castle.

Rossio square viewed from above.

Do not forget, however, to look down as well. As often, in the case in the streets of Lisbon, even the pavement is part of the city’s artistic heritage. The beautiful cobblestone surface stretching beneath your feet is an example of calçada portuguesa, the typical mosaic paving made from smooth black and white stone pebbles. You will curse that lovely pavement on rainy days, as it becomes particularly slippery, so much so that hospital admissions for broken bones increase dramatically. The distinctive “waves” decorating the square’s pavement are a recurring motif that you will find throughout the streets of Lisbon. They were introduced in the early 1900s to bring a touch of maritime memory into the city’s streets. It is also the very same pattern you can observe if you travel a few thousand kilometers west to Rio de Janeiro and walk along the Copacabana seafront, designed by architect and landscape designer Burle Marx in 1970.

A beautiful blooming Jacarandà tree.

If you are lucky enough to visit Lisbon in the spring, in this square you will find yourself immersed in a fragrant purple cloud created by the magnificent jacaranda trees in bloom that surround the square. Blooming jacarandas are one of the city’s wonders, which you can admire from about mid-April to late June. These trees are native to Central and South America and began to adorn Lisbon from the 19th century onward, thanks to Félix de Avelar Brotero, the father of Portuguese botany and a landscape architect, who started distributing the seeds throughout the city.

You can now choose whether to cross the square diagonally and head toward Praça da Figueira, another square with a similar layout, or continue straight ahead to venture into the grid-like avenues of the Baixa district. Whatever your choice, I recommend first making a stop at the Church of São Domingos, located at the northeast corner of the square. This church has had a rather unfortunate history, having been destroyed by fire in the fateful year of 1755 and again in 1959. After the last fire, only the façade was rebuilt, while inside the scorched walls remain; when viewed superficially, they can vaguely resemble Baroque decorations, resulting in a church that is truly unique.