ALFAMA: WHERE YOU CAN FIND LISBON'S TRUE SOUL

Alfama takes its name from an Arabic word meaning “the fountain.” According to the legend, this part of the city was built around a natural spring that supplied water to the local inhabitants. It was once a neighborhood of sailors and wives awaiting their husbands' return from the sea. It holds immense cultural importance for Lisbon and for Portugal: it was here that Fado was born and that the poetic concept of saudade took shape, a word expressing nostalgia for something that belongs to the past, yet is also accompanied by the joy of having lived it.

Graffiti in Alfama dedicated to Fado.

The best way to explore Alfama is to get lost in its alleyways. Let curiosity guide you through its winding streets lined with white houses, sometimes adorned with artists’ murals. Cross a small square shaded by orange trees, let yourself be captured by the scent of grilled sardinhas, don’t refuse the invitation of a mulher (a lady) offering you a glass of ginjinha - the traditional cherry liqueur - from her doorstep. And finally, step out onto one of Lisbon’s most beautiful miradouro.

If, however, wandering aimlessly isn’t your thing, here is a route that will allow you to see the neighbourhood’s highlights.

The view from Miradouro Portas do Sol.

If I left you at Praça do Comércio, turn left and head toward the riverfront, passing through Rua dos Bocalhoeiros, also known as the “blue street” (you can’t miss it, the pavement is really blue). This street will lead you to the José Saramago Foundation, well worth a visit for literature lovers. The square in front of it is popular among skateboarders, and from here you can enjoy a colourful view of Lisbon’s riverside houses. Continue eastward until you reach the Chafariz d’El Rei, the King’s Fountain, then turn right onto Travessa Terreiro do Trigo. Now, reach the Church of São Miguel and walk along its left side to arrive at a lovely small square decorated with orange trees and murals. Now climb the fairly long staircase that cuts through the heart of Alfama, and you will reach one of the city’s main viewpoints: Portas do Sol, whose name evokes the wave of light reflected by the white houses beneath your feet. Catch your breath, let yourself be immersed in the brightness, and listen to one of the street performers who is probably playing here. Then continue left to the nearby Miradouro de Santa Luzia, framed by purple bougainvillea and perfect for taking beautiful photographs.

The Feira da Ladra, a thrift market.

If you happen to be in Alfama over the weekend, I recommend continuing along Rua São Tomé and then Rua São Vicente to reach the Feira da Ladra, the flea market held every Saturday from 9:00 a.m. until sunset, where you might find some real gems. If you’re visiting on any other day of the week, you can still follow this route to head toward the National Pantheon. Coming back along the same route, you can then make a short stop at São Jorge Castle.

Alternatively, you can return toward Baixa by walking down Rua Augusto Rosa. You will pass alongside Lisbon’s cathedral, the Sé. The Sé is an excellent example of Romanesque architecture: its construction began in 1150, after the Reconquista of the Iberian Peninsula, on the site where the ancient mosque once stood. The cloister, built later between the 13th and 14th centuries, is Gothic in style. Visitors from Padua may be interested to know that Saint Anthony—born in Lisbon and educated here before taking his vows—was baptized in this very cathedral. One sign of Saint Anthony’s presence can be found on the wall of the staircase leading up to the upper choir: the famous Cross of Saint Anthony.

By continuing downhill you’ll find yourself once again within Baixa’s grid.