BAIRRO ALTO: BETWEEN NIGHT LIFE AND SLOW LIFE

There are several ways to reach Bairro Alto, and all of them involve going uphill. Bairro Alto sits on one of the legendary seven hills on which, back in 300 BC, Romulus and Remus built… no, sorry, that’s another story. Lisbon too, however, claims to have been built on seven hills, on which the city’s neighborhoods rise: São Jorge (the highest hill, crowned by São Jorge Castle), São Vicente (home to the Alfama district), Sant’Ana (which includes the Jardim do Torel), Santo André (made up of two peaks, where you’ll find the Miradouro da Graça and the Senhora do Monte viewpoint), Chagas (reached via the famous Bica Funicular), Santa Catarina (which hosts the Miradouro de Santa Catarina, one of the city’s most famous viewpoints), and São Roque (with the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara). In truth, the comparison with Rome’s seven hills is merely a literary invention by the chronicler Nicolau de Oliveira (1566–1634), since Lisbon is made by many more hills. Expect to have well-trained legs if you plan to explore Lisbon on foot, otherwise you’ll train them over in these days.

A street of Bairro Alto.

If I left you at Praça do Comércio, simply walk along the riverfront to Cais do Sodré, then take the long road (of course, uphill) that opens to your right. Alternatively, you can cover the first stretch by hopping on a bus up to Praça Luís de Camões. Whichever option you choose, pause for a moment in this square, dedicated to Portugal’s most famous poet, Luís de Camões, that back in 1580, composed the epic poem The Lusiads to celebrate Portugal’s maritime achievements. If you’re short of breath, pretend to admire the statue devoted to this illustrious figure before continuing the climb toward Bairro Alto. Overlooking the square there is also one of the city’s best pastelarias, A Manteigaria, irresistible even for your most athletic friends. One (or two) pastéis de nata dusted with cinnamon are mandatory before setting off again.

To your right lies Largo do Chiado (the “upper” part of Baixa), named after the satirical poet António Ribeiro Chiado, a contemporary of Camões, who seems to watch his serious friend mischievously from across the street. This square is also home to the famous café A Brasileira, where you can sit at a table and have lunch in the company of Fernando Pessoa (in statue form). If you have the time and the budget, I highly recommend a stop in this elegant café, frozen in time.

The irresistible pastéis de nata: flaky pastry tarts filled with creamy custard, traditionally served dusted with powdered sugar or cinnamon.

Opposite A Brasileira you’ll find the oldest bookstore in Europe, Livraria Bertrand Chiado, founded in 1735. You may be slightly disappointed if you expect it to have remained unchanged since the 1700s, as the interiors have been recently restored to ensure visitors’ safety. At the end of Rua do Chiado you’ll then come across the Armazéns do Chiado, a shopping center. If you happen to be in Lisbon during Christmas time (which begins in late October in Lisbon), you’ll find delightful illuminations all over the city, but this square in particular truly shines.

Now it’s time to head upward. Continue along Rua da Misericórdia and pass by Largo Trindade Coelho, home to the Church of São Roque. Continue closely alongside the church walls on one of the narrowest sidewalks in the city, dodging trams, bicycles, cars, and pedestrians coming the other way: one of the most dangerous stretches in Lisbon. If you make it through unscathed, however, you’ll arrive at one of the city’s most enchanting spots, perfect for savouring its contemplative soul: Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. Especially at sunset, the sight of the city set ablaze by warm evening colours is a true delight for the eyes. From here you will enjoy a privileged view of Lisbon’s geography, with vistas of São Jorge Castle, the Cathedral (Sé), the Jardim do Torel, and Rossio Square. Have fun spotting them on the horizon. In the distance, you’ll also glimpse a stretch of the Tagus River. Stop for a few minutes and enjoy the music a street performer is likely playing; I’ll be back to get you shortly.

La vista da Miraoudo de Alcântara.

Let’s resume our walk now. Continue up the small, curving incline from the Miradouro de São Pedro, pass the bars and shops, and you’ll complete your climb in the Jardim do Príncipe Real. Sit beneath the canopy of the famous Lebanese cedar that spreads like an umbrella over passers-by, listen to the laughter of children playing on the other side of the park, and rest your feet in the shade of their leafy trees. Perhaps a street musician will be strumming a guitar, or the park’s painter will be capturing the landscape on his easel.

In the evening, Bairro Alto is the favourite gathering place for young people, especially Erasmus students roaming the city in search of new connections. It’s a riot of music, foreign languages, and street vendors selling not-so-inviting snacks. By day, however, the streets turn into a calm labyrinth, lined with small restaurants and creative shops. No matter what time of day you arrive to explore this area, from the Miradouro de São Pedro you can dive in and attempt to cross the tangle of streets and culinary/alcoholic temptations, keeping an eye out for pickpockets. I challenge you to find your way out. Whether luck or Google Maps leads you back, just in case, here are a few hints.

This part of the city is also laid out in parallel streets, once inhabited by sailors and prostitutes. Simply choose a street parallel to Rua da Misericórdia and walk in the opposite direction from which you arrived, all the way to the end, you will emerge once again in Praça Luís de Camões. If you find this option particularly boring, just turn right angle and move on to the next parallel street; interesting places may appear before you. Art lovers, for example, should stop by Zé dos Bois Gallery, a cultural collective with a bookstore on the ground floor, a bar with a terrace and a view on the top floor, and contemporary art exhibitions by local and international artists on the intermediate levels. You’ll make a great impression on your art-lover friend. If you find yourself wandering these streets at dinnertime, you’ll be spoiled for choice among the many restaurants with outdoor seating that dot the area. If after dinner you’re feeling slightly tipsy and in the mood for some music, I suggest heading to Páginas Tantas, which hosts live jazz performances.

The gardens of Principe Reàl (or Filhão de Almeida) with blooming Jacarandà trees.

If you're not in the mood to lose yourself in the lively maze of Bairro Alto's streets, make your way towards the charming neighborhood of Estrela instead.

Follow the downhill stretch of Rua da Palmeira until you reach the delightful Jardim Filhão de Almeida, a leafy square framed by inviting cafés and intimate restaurants, the perfect place to pause for a coffee or a leisurely meal. From here, turn left onto Rua Nova da Piedade, which leads you straight to the imposing Portuguese Parliament, a magnificent neoclassical landmark whose origins date back to the 16th century. Continue left along Rua de São Bento, one of Lisbon's most characterful streets, where independent boutiques, design stores, and stylish cafés invite you to linger. It's an excellent spot for a leisurely breakfast or simply to soak up the neighborhood's creative atmosphere. Welcome to Estrela, a district of rolling hills, elegant traditional houses, and a thriving community of artisans and independent businesses. It feels distinctly local, yet effortlessly stylish. As the day begins to wind down, head towards the Miraodouro of Santa Catarina. Perched above the city, it offers one of Lisbon's most enchanting panoramas, with sweeping views across the harbor and the shimmering waters of the Tagus River. As the sun dips below the horizon and the city glows in warm golden light, it's hard not to think: yes, life is good.

The view from Miradouro de Santa Caterina.

Here is the map of the itinerary, that you will find at the end of every article.