BELÉM: HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND DELICIOUS PASTRIES

The Belém district offers three main experiences: a culinary one, a historical one, and an artistic one. The fourth experience — far less pleasant — is the “touristic” one. In fact, Belém is where most of Lisbon’s major attractions are concentrated, making it an essential stop if you have limited time or if this is your first visit to the city. As a result, if you plan to visit on a weekend or, especially, during the summer, be prepared for crowds and long queues to enter the main monuments. My advice is to book tickets online in advance, visit it during the low season, or arm yourself with plenty of patience.

On the road to Belém.

So how do you reach this district of endless experiences? There are several options, all starting from the same point: Cais do Sodré station. From here you can:

• take a direct train toward Cascais and get off at Belém station;

• go to the bus stop in front of the station and hop on tram 15E or bus 353;

• rent a bicycle or an electric scooter and follow the river all the way;

• alternatively, if you’re feeling energetic, walk there, or if you’re short on time, take a taxi (Bolt, Uber, etc.).

On the way there, for the more creative souls, I recommend a stop at LX Factory. Built inside a former industrial complex, it’s home to independent shops, a design market, tattoo studios, graffiti, and several cafés and restaurants where you can have lunch or enjoy an excellent chocolate cake (at Landeau Chocolate).

Now let’s return to the experiences mentioned earlier. You certainly won’t be disappointed if you stop at the birthplace of the pastel de nata, the iconic puff pastry tart filled with custard cream. Only at the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém the original recipe — created by the Hieronymite monks in the 19th century — is still followed, and it remains secret from all other pastry shops in the city. These heavenly pastries were originally invented at the nearby Jerónimos Monastery to be sold to the locals. Since monks used egg whites to starch their clothes, they came up with this recipe as a way to use the leftover yolks, turning them into a rich cream. The pastries quickly became a favourite dessert among locals, but in 1834 the monastery was forced to close following the Liberal Revolution of 1820 and the abolition of religious orders. One of the monastery’s cooks was hired by a nearby pastry shop owned by Domingos Rafael Alves, a merchant and master pastry chef. The cook brought the secret recipe with him, and from 1837 onwards the pastéis began to be produced and sold at Alves’s bakery. Ever since, this brilliant recipe has delighted thousands of visitors every year. The queue here moves relatively quickly thanks to the large space, and you’ll easily find a table to enjoy this divine treat. One tip: order at least two each — after the first bite, you’ll definitely want another!

The beautiful cloister of the Jerónimos Monastery

Once you’ve indulged in this heavenly delight, you’re ready to head toward the Jerónimos Monastery. Once home to the monks of the Hieronymite Order, the monastery was commissioned by King Manuel I to celebrate the return of Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese navigator who discovered the sea route to India. Legend has it that Vasco da Gama and his crew prayed on this very site before setting sail. Manuel I entrusted the project to architect Diogo de Boitaca and spared no expense, funding the construction with revenues from the spice trade—which was booming at the time. The result is one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture, a richly decorated Portuguese late-Gothic style that flourished during Manuel I’s reign between 1490 and 1520, incorporating maritime elements such as ropes and anchors. If you’re willing to wait in line, you’ll also be able to admire the magnificent cloister, where several iconic figures of Portuguese history are buried, including Vasco da Gama, Luís de Camões, and Fernando Pessoa. If patience isn’t your thing, be sure to book tickets in advance on the official website.

The Monument to the Discoveries.

To complete the historical journey and embrace Portugal’s spirit of exploration, head toward the river. Here you’ll first encounter the Monument to the Discoveries, designed in 1960 by Telmo Cottinelli and sculpted by Leopoldo de Almeida to commemorate the great geographical discoveries of the 15th and 16th centuries. The monument is made from local limestone, the same material used to build both Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery. Depicted solemnly as if ready to set sail aboard a caravel are some of Portugal’s most famous figures: at the prow stands Henry the Navigator holding a ship; behind him, on the western-facing side, are the poet Camões with a copy of The Lusiads, the painter Nuno Gonçalves with a palette knife, and many other navigators, cartographers, and kings. Viewed through a modern lens, one might argue that nothing was truly “discovered,” that these lands in the Far East and South America were already known and inhabited, and that Western empires often brought exploitation. Still, the monument can also be seen as a tribute to humanity’s innate curiosity and drive to explore — how we choose to act upon what we find is up to each of us.

The famous Belém Tower.

Continuing along the riverfront to the right, you’ll reach another historic landmark and one of Lisbon’s most famous sights: Belém Tower. This was the first structure sailors would see of their homeland after long voyages at sea. If you’re feeling overheated by the summer sun, tired from walking, or simply want to enjoy the sunset, take a break under one of the olive trees in the large lawn facing the tower. This may be a better use of your time than visiting the interior. If the long ticket line hasn’t already discouraged you, keep in mind that the rooms are rather bare and the view isn’t particularly impressive, as the tower itself isn’t very tall.

For lovers of contemporary art and architecture, a visit to the Museu de Arte Contemporânea at the Centro Cultural de Belém is a must. Opened in 2007, the museum was designed by Italian architect Vittorio Gregotti and Portuguese architect Manuel Salgado. The permanent exhibition (the Coleção Berardo) is highly educational, following a clear chronological narrative that traces the major Western art movements from the 1920s onward, with additional contemporary works displayed on the ground floor. There are also several temporary exhibitions. If you prefer not to enter the museum, you can still wander through its courtyards to appreciate the architecture or enjoy the cool breeze from the terrace overlooking the Tagus River.

Finally, for art and design enthusiasts, there are two more museums worth mentioning. The first is MAAT, located along the route to Belém, offering stunning views over the Tagus. The second, set away from the riverbanks, is the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, founded by the immensely wealthy Armenian oil magnate whose name it bears. The museum opened in 1969 to house his eclectic collection, ranging from Ancient Egyptian artefacts to masterpieces by Rembrandt and Degas. In this case as well, the building and surrounding gardens alone are well worth the visit.

The MAAT Museum.